Buying Indian vegetables in Lagos

Hi,

When I shifted here, I had no clue whether we would get Indian vegetables in Lagos or not. My husband had also told me astronomical prices of certain veggies. I was really dreading this veggie buying!! The second day I came to Lagos, my friend took me to the roadside vendors, who sold veggies. Since this was on a road, no shop, I was very scared! I clinged onto my purse and kept fearing the armed robbers. Now, I am a pro at buying veggies and slowly inching my way into the close circle of the veggie lady! What does it take and what does this close circle mean? Some pointers to new/would be Lagos ex pats, read on....

1. Be prepared to be shocked: We get ALL Indian vegetables here, from methi to dhaniya, to tondli (kundru), doodhi, bhindi etc etc etc. You name it, they have it. Surprising part is that these are called by Indian names. Initially, I tried to ask for Aubergines, I got a dumb look; next I tried Brinjal, again same look; then a kindly lady said "She wants Baingan". I  got the baingan and an angry look ("Couldn't you say that earlier"!!)

The shocking part is definitely the prices - very small amount of dhaniya, probably enough to last for one use, costs N100 (= Rs. 33)!!! My Delhi friends will find this close to a heart attack, since many of them get it free with the vegetables! Cauliflower is THE most expensive at N 1000 (=Rs.330) for half a kilo!! "You know, anyways cauliflower causes a lot of gas in the stomach......who wants to eat it!!" That is how we have rationalized our lesser cauliflower intake!! :) As for dhaniya, we do buy it, but restrict it to dishes for guests. For regular food, powdered dhaniya is good enough!  

Most treasured!!

2nd most treasured!

2. Be prepared to book your Fridays: Though everything is available, fresh veggies are available only on Fridays and Mondays; Fridays are the most preferable. Rest of the week, you could get good onions and potatoes; but you will definitely not get fresh leafy vegetables; you will get rotten tomatoes/brinjals/bottle gourd etc. Some weeks back, while I was buying veggies, a man had come (minus wife/mother/sister). He was like "Okay, I will buy some now and buy some more after 2 days!!!" The women around all smirked.......such optimism!!! :):) 

3. Be prepared to be hugged: The minute I step out of the car, Ramola/Habiba, come running to me. I brace myself for the big hug I know I will get. I am not a snob or a racist, just that it is uncomfortable being hugged like this in public, and the sweat adds to this discomfort. But hey, wait. The HUG is the 3rd step in the whole inner circle thing. The 1st step is when she nods at you, you murmur "Good morning", to which there is no reply. This translates into no discount, endless wait for her to 'total' the amount you need to pay. "Come Ramola, total!!" 

The 2nd step is the hi fi she will give you. That probably happens after a month or more, of regularly buying from her. This still does not mean discounts or faster 'total' 

The 3rd step is HUG! It means you are into the close circle.......you get discounts on certain items (like tomatoes, potatoes), not on the most coveted ones (like dhaniya and cauliflower). You get 'totalled' faster than earlier. 

The ultimate step is the slap on the butt!!!! (YES!!!!). Ramola did it to me last week and I was like WOW!!!!! (no, I am straight) It means a lot to me - it means discounts on the cauliflower (like half kilo, N 600/700, saving of N 300/400 = saving of Rs. 100!!); it means I get 'totalled' first! Also, Ramola chooses the best tomatoes, okra and medium sized onions for me!

In addition, it means dhaniya Mamma will give me one bag dhaniya free!!! In fact, dhaniya Mamma gave me one bag methi also free!!! WOW!! That was D day....I had arrived!! (I had written earlier who Mamma is......she is the Kingpen; she doesn't smile/nod/hug/butt slap)

Yellow one is Ramola and the one sitting behind is Mamma

Dhaniya Mamma hasn't come properly, too shy

How did I manage this?? Repeated buying from Ramola/Habiba and gang; always being deferential to Mamma (she is THE boss), but never allowing her to 'total' (discounts my foot, she might tell me to buzz off); giving old clothes to Ramola's son! And allowing myself to be hi fied, hugged, slapped on the butt, with a pleasant expression on my face!!! :):):) 

Maybe now tomorrow, we can garnish our dal with the dhaniya and have Alu Gobhi too!!